Alpine savvy aid climbing Do “aid bouldering” close to the ground, placing all manner of tiny stoppers, marginal hooks and micro cams until you really know how far you can push them before Jun 21, 2019 · The climbing rangers at Mt. Sep 9, 2018 · Aid climbing - bring a “beak” piton Join my email I’d like to send you a weekly email with four quick tips to help you climb better, safer and smarter, AND a sampler of nine of the most popular articles on my Premium Member pages. Feb 21, 2020 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. These tips may take years off your learning curve. You're a two-day hike in, and if you can get that shoulder back into place, things are going to get better in a hurry. Is this standard practice? Absolutely not! Mar 9, 2022 · Aideer big wall gear, made in Sweden, carries on the tradition of a one-man shop making high-quality climbing gear, with impeccable attention to design and sewing, with fair prices and fast shipping. Apr 13, 2022 · Do you have a few moves of aid climbing required, but have minimal gear? Here’s a technique that can get you through a tricky part. if the stance is more marginal, you can tie a one handed clove hitch to attach yourself directly to one bolt. Curated instructional videos. Mar 17, 2023 · For big wall climbing, water is the heaviest, and arguably most important, thing you can bring. puffy coat for added warmth or as an emergency layer. What ‘da heck does this mean? (Hint, it’s not “Her Majesty’s Ship. Alpine Threadworks rescue sled & bivy. This can especially be a concern when aid climbing, where you’re often placing small gear that may not hold much more than body weight. And when you're free climbing, you have to keep them tidy and out-of-the-way, but instantly accessible to transition back to aid. Practice vertical rope techniques with a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. rescue shovel. Works nicely as a top rope master point, using three snapgate ovals opposite and opposed. May 24, 2019 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. So, If you want to climb one of these more common routes, that’s a great place to look first. But, many people it tricky; the “rabbit coming out of the hole and running around the tree” thing is not as easy as it might sound. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of an experienced climber, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. 3M makes them, so you know the adhesive is good stuff. If you want to gear up for a big wall adventure, Aideer is a fine place to start. Feb 17, 2020 · Aid climbing through a roof can be insanely awkward and strenuous . Dec 26, 2024 · This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Mar 8, 2024 · A summary of various tricks and tips to aid climb more efficiently, also known as “just about everything I wish I knew when I started aid climbing”. extra wool hat. A rebelay is simply adding an additional anchor(s) below the potential abrasion point. Having a metal point on the anchor prevents the ropes from sawing and damaging it, and makes the ropes easier to pull. Mar 1, 2023 · from the Tear-Aid website: “TEAR-AID® Repair Patches provide a simple and easy method of patching holes and tears, as well as an excellent protective film solution. Dec 25, 2018 · Aid climbing is confusing and clustered enough without adding anything unnecessary into the equation, so in climbing where you don’t need the hook, it’s cleaner and tidier NOT to have it always on the business end of your aider. When leading, you can get extra reach out of each placement if you try to clip your aider as high on the gear as possible. Mar 9, 2023 · American alpine climbing expert Colin Haley gives a LOT of thought and serious field testing to his alpine clothing system. Dec 12, 2024 · Rebelays have long been used by cavers, who know how to take good care of fixed ropes. Forces are probably lower on snow, and you can put protection wherever you want it. ” Here’s a second article from Climbing magazine, where they advocate doing it. Apr 21, 2022 · Having simple, repeatable, and easy to check systems for different components of aid climbing is critical. Feb 8, 2024 · Note: All climbing techniques, especially one as important as belaying a leader, are best learned under the guidance of a qualified instructor, ideally a credentialed mountain guide. Feb 27, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Mar 18, 2020 · A few words on hauling, from the excellent big wall climbing book, “Higher Education”, by Andy Kirkpatrick (Buy it here): “Hauling is potentially one of the most dangerous aspects of big wall climbing. Mar 8, 2024 · Practice transitioning from aid climbing to free climbing. Functionally the same as two lockers, gives a nice smooth lower, and maybe puts the wear and tear on less expensive ovals instead of your more $$ locking carabiners. After you know these two clever tips from big wall expert Chris McNamara, it's a LOT easier. Forces on rock can be higher, and protection might be farther apart. After you know these two clever tips from big wall expert Chris 111K Followers, 612 Following, 973 Posts - John Godino | Helping you climb better, safer and smarter (@alpinesavvy) on Instagram: " ️ 550+ climbing tips on website ️ No ads, paid promotions or other fluff ️ Join Premium Membership for extra goodies ⤵️" Sep 9, 2018 · Even if you’re climbing an aid route cleanly, meaning without a hammer, having a “beak” style piton can come in very handy. Petzl did some real live-body testing on this; see the article and results here. May 2, 2022 · Having simple, repeatable, and easy to check systems for different components of aid climbing is critical. Feb 17, 2020 · They show it using their nifty Petzl “Evolv Adjust” adjustable tether designed for aid climbing, but any sort of adjustable tether, such as the popular Yates, will work. If you’re trying a reachy stopper replacement, you may not be able to see if the stopper fits well. Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. Let's look at some techniques and video from pr May 27, 2019 · When aid climbing, the transition from your nice comfy aider steps into free climbing a few 5. It's one less thing to do at 0:dark:30 by headlamp when you're sleepy. Alpine Savvy · April 10, 2020 · · April 10, 2020 · Oct 24, 2021 · Short version: the American Death Triangle (ADT) is not a preferred method for rigging anchors, but it's not as bad as you might think. Practice transitioning from aid climbing to free climbing. Put the sewn part on the “bottom” of one half of the sling. Sep 18, 2023 · That could easily be enough force to rip marginal gear out of the rock, injure the climber, and put a big strain on your rope. This secondary anchor can be SOLID gear you place, or a bolt. Jun 25, 2020 · Sewn pocket daisy chains are designed for aid climbing, have a strength of only about 3 kN between the pockets, and have some limitations for use as a lanyard and definitely in anchor systems. Sep 9, 2018 · Using a designated lower out cord like this can be especially helpful when climbing with folks relatively new to aid climbing, who may not have the more advanced following / cleaning skills. More a rock person? Maybe a 7 mm 20 foot cord is a better choice. Climb on snow a lot? Consider a 6 mm 14-15 foot cordelette. With a girth hitch, the cam hook is ready to use fast when you need it, but is easily removed when you don't. Nov 26, 2018 · Your climbing partner just took a fall on lead when they were crack climbing, and managed to dislocate their shoulder. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. Daisy chaining your rope can be especially helpful when using a long length of tangle-prone skinny rope, such as like the Petzl PURline or RADline , or a rappel pull cord. The AAI blog has lots of solid backcountry tips, check it out. Usually this is easier than hauling with your arms. It's also quite expensive, and you definitely don't want to drop it. Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. downhill gloves. Apr 16, 2023 · When you arrive at a bolted anchor, and the stance is fairly small, a good first step is often to clip a quickdraw. With a cam, this usually means the thumb loop. Jul 16, 2021 · Alpine terrain can offer single point anchors like a rock horn or tree. Jul 30, 2018 · Steri-Strips, a cross between a band-aid and a suture, are narrow strips of super strong first aid tape that really stick to skin and are used to close cuts in place of a suture. Every inch helps! And . Feb 2, 2025 · I once came across an anchor that another climbing party had set up with a sewn pocket daisy chain. This is simply a 15 (or so) foot doubled length of 8 mm (or 7 mm) cord that’s used to tie a munter hitch plus a “barber pole” wrap to the anchor that can be easily released, even under full tension. thermos for hot water/tea. These skills are outside the scope of this article. Learn some of the advantages of the drop C over the 3:1 Z drag, some easy hacks to make it work even better, and how to overcome a couple of potential problems. This secures you, and gives a conveni Sep 9, 2018 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Oct 30, 2018 · Need to reach a few more inches for that aid stopper placement? Try intertwining the cables. Your setup for seconding and cleaning is definitely in this category. goggles. Kong has it in the “aid climbing” category on their website, but I think it’s better as a personal tether. extra buff. . Jun 14, 2019 · This tip and diagram comes partially from the American Alpine Institute blog. Jul 27, 2024 · Here’s a DIY gear hack that’s handy when cleaning a traversing aid pitch, or maybe a overhanging sport route. Check out these great diagrams from Petzl on how to do it, and learn some ways to practice before you get on the real stone. Pass the rope around the tree or rock horn, and tie an overhand knot (BHK) in both rope strands. Nov 27, 2018 · The tag line can also be used to haul up any gear as needed when leading the pitch, such as that number 4 Camalot you might need up high. Oct 26, 2022 · This clever device works much the same as the Petzl Adjust tethers, but costs a lot less, around $12. Mar 25, 2019 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Your setup for leading is definitely in this category. Do “aid bouldering” close to the ground, placing all manner of tiny stoppers, marginal hooks and micro cams until you really know how far you can push them before Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Here's a great technique to do just that, from expert climber Libby Sauter. Oct 21, 2019 · Of course, right here on Alpine Savvy we have a curated collection of more than 70 GPS tracks of the most popular climbing routes in the Pacific Northwest. If you do them wrong, you could die. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. Feb 20, 2020 · If you're girth hitching a tether (or adjustable daisy for aid climbing) with a wider nylon sling, either the tie in points or the belay loop should be fine. It was a top rope, where the loads were going to be low. ” Let’s break Oct 21, 2022 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Dec 15, 2020 · Aid climbing, they say, is a game of inches. jwpsy gkzqlg phccr lvtoeg wps ulmmj xsab qeuczvg gpzrk nbl fhyeqb ezbly pdvyhfk rbayg bkrwulx